Cook Islands Relax: Polynesia without the crowds

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This relaxation itinerary runs the Cook Islands in eight days — the South Pacific's least known, most authentic islands, free of big hotel chains and cruise ships. It starts in Rarotonga — the main island, with the beaches of Muri and Titikaveka of white sand and the botanical gardens of Maire Nui. Rarotonga's lagoon is shallow and clear, with snorkelling straight off the beach and effortless kayaking. The island of Aitutaki, 45 minutes by air, is the jewel: the Aitutaki Lagoon — reckoned the most beautiful on Earth — is a 50-square-kilometer triangle of turquoise water with 15 motus (coral islets). The day cruise of the lagoon visits deserted motus, the bird island with red-footed boobies and great terns, and Tapuaetai (One Foot Island), where the chief stamps your passport. Boutique resorts such as the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort keep bungalows facing the lagoon with hammocks under palms. Rarotonga's sunset markets, with papaya salad and ika mata (raw fish), round off this tropical detox.