What to see in Serbia: 5 must-sees

Walk along the walls of Kalemegdan Fortress, from where you can see the confluence of the Sava and the Danube. Head down to Skadarlija, the bohemian quarter with old taverns, and cross over to Zemun to stroll along the water. At night, the splavovi—barges anchored on the river—turn into bars that stay open until dawn. Markets like Kalenić sell ajvar and local cheeses, while kafanas serve rakija with live music.

Explore Niš, the birthplace of Constantine the Great, where the Ottoman fortress above the Nišava River guards Roman and medieval remains. Wander down the coppersmiths' street, try ćevapi at the kafanas in the center, and visit the Skull Tower, built from the skulls of Serbian rebels in 1809. A few kilometers away, the Mediana archaeological site preserves mosaics from the 4th-century imperial villa.

Take in the Drina River canyon from the viewpoints of Tara National Park, in the Zlatibor region, where Pančić spruce forests cover slopes reaching 2,000 m in altitude. Hike its trails among beeches and pines, look for eagles and capercaillies with binoculars, and stop by some of its 18 glacial lakes. The park is home to bears, wolves, and deer in limited-access areas, and its marked trails allow for hikes of several hours with barely any other walkers.

At Dyavol Varos, see how water and wind have sculpted 202 columns of reddish earth crowned with black stones, which locals call the petrified wedding couple. Climb the trails of this natural monument in southern Serbia, among the pine woods on the slopes of Radan, and hear the legend that gave Devil's Town its name. Bring water and hiking shoes: the viewpoints are reached on foot and the terrain can be slippery after rain.