What to see in Saint Martin: 10 must-sees

Stretch out on the two kilometers of sand of the St-Tropez of the Caribbean: the island's longest and liveliest beach, with beachfront restaurants, kitesurfing gear, and the turquoise water of the Atlantic coast sheltered by the reef. Walk the entire shoreline to Green Cay across the bay, rent a jet ski or paddleboard from the stalls at the southern end, and stay for sunset at the beach bars. It's the beach that defines French Saint Martin.

Walk the 15-minute trail from Friar's Bay to Happy Bay, a roadless cove shaped like a half-moon of sand between green hills, with a coral seabed and leaning coconut palms. Arrive early with your own water and umbrella, swim in the natural pool on the right, and watch the iguanas on the hillside with no other soul around. It's the French side's worst-kept and best-preserved secret.

Dine in the village the tourist office calls the gastronomic capital of the Caribbean: an endless row of French restaurants and Creole lolos among painted wooden houses facing the sea. Try the conch fricassée at the main-street lolos, freshly made journey cakes, and the tasting menus of the starred bistros, and stroll the boulevard at sunset. It's the Caribbean's best table in just two kilometers.

Take the 10-minute ferry across to the little island of Saint Martin's Nature Reserve, with two shallow-water beaches, trails between cacti, and coral reefs offshore. Snorkel the buoy circuit among pufferfish and rays, eat grilled lobster at the island's two restaurants, and walk the east trail to the lookout. It's a postcard escape five minutes from the car.

Climb the 91 steps of the 1789 fort that Louis XVI's governor built to defend the harbor from pirates, and from the parapet take in Marigot Bay, Anguilla, and Sandy Ground. Then head down to the French capital's market with its spices and tropical fruits, stroll the sailboat-lined waterfront, and try the French cheeses at the supermarket. It's the historic postcard of the French side.

Climb to the island's highest point, the 424-meter Pic Paradis, up a tropical-forest slope with views over both nations and the neighboring islands, as far as Saba on clear days. Then descend to Loterie Farm, the old 1773 plantation with 54 hectares of protected rainforest, Fly Zone ziplines, and a pool tucked among the ferns. It's the green, elevated side of Saint Martin nobody expects.

Feel the jet blast as planes land right over your head on the world's most famous plane-spotting beach, with the Sunset Bar tallying the Boeing 747 landings on its board. Lie on the sand with the plane's wings passing 30 meters overhead, then run to the jet-blast fence at takeoff that shoves you toward the water. It's the most adrenaline-pumping free show in the Caribbean.