Big Wall in Yosemite: El Capitan and Half Dome
Six days of big wall climbing in Yosemite Valley: an ascent of The Nose of El Capitan, granite cracks, and bivouacs on vertical walls 900m above the ground.
Description
Yosemite Valley is the world's cathedral of granite climbing. This itinerary is designed for climbers with big wall experience who want to take on the two most iconic walls on the planet: El Capitan and Half Dome. It begins with a warm-up day on the Swan Slab cracks, followed by the Royal Arches Route. The highlight is the ascent of The Nose on El Capitan: 31 pitches up a route that follows the prow of the 900-meter monolith, the most famous route in climbing history. It takes two days, with portaledge bivouacs hundreds of meters above the ground. The fourth day is devoted to Snake Dike on Half Dome, an 8-pitch route up the south face that ends on the summit of the most photographed dome in the world. It closes with a day of bouldering at the legendary Camp 4. Proven experience in multi-pitch climbing, crack technique, and wall bivouac systems is required. Permits are obtained by lottery or through the Camp 4 waitlist.
Health & safety
- Frequent rockfalls in spring: helmet mandatory
- Dehydration on the wall: bring 4 liters of water per person per day
- Summer thunderstorms: check the weather report every morning
Day-by-day itinerary
Warm-up at Swan Slab
Yosemite Valley
Warm-up at Swan Slab
Camp setup at Camp 4. First cracks at Swan Slab and Church Bowl.
Cracks at Swan Slab
Sports4hBouldering at Camp 4
Sports2hRoyal Arches
Yosemite Valley
Royal Arches
16-pitch traditional climb up the Royal Arches with a rappel descent.
Royal Arches Route 5.7 A0
Sports8hEl Capitan: The Nose, Day 1
El Capitan
El Capitan: The Nose, Day 1
Start of The Nose. First 15 pitches. Wall bivouac 450m above the ground.
The Nose, pitches 1-15
Sports12hBivouac at El Cap Tower
Sports2hEl Capitan: The Nose, Day 2
El Capitan
El Capitan: The Nose, Day 2
El Capitan summit. Last 16 pitches up the upper Nose.
The Nose pitches 16-31
Sports10hSummit and descent
Sports3hHalf Dome: Snake Dike
Half Dome
Half Dome: Snake Dike
Snake Dike climb (5.7R) up the south face of Half Dome. Summit at 2,694m.
Snake Dike Route
Sports10hDescent down the cables
Sports2hBouldering at Camp 4 and farewell
Yosemite Valley
Bouldering at Camp 4 and farewell
Morning bouldering session. Farewell at Yosemite Lodge.
Bouldering: Midnight Lightning
Sports3hPizza and beer at Degnan's Deli
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