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ExtremeNorth America

Big Wall in Yosemite: El Capitan and Half Dome

Six days of big wall climbing in Yosemite Valley: an ascent of The Nose of El Capitan, granite cracks, and bivouacs on vertical walls 900m above the ground.

6 days1 countryMay–June and September–October: mild temperatures on the wall, with no snow or extreme heat

Description

Yosemite Valley is the world's cathedral of granite climbing. This itinerary is designed for climbers with big wall experience who want to take on the two most iconic walls on the planet: El Capitan and Half Dome. It begins with a warm-up day on the Swan Slab cracks, followed by the Royal Arches Route. The highlight is the ascent of The Nose on El Capitan: 31 pitches up a route that follows the prow of the 900-meter monolith, the most famous route in climbing history. It takes two days, with portaledge bivouacs hundreds of meters above the ground. The fourth day is devoted to Snake Dike on Half Dome, an 8-pitch route up the south face that ends on the summit of the most photographed dome in the world. It closes with a day of bouldering at the legendary Camp 4. Proven experience in multi-pitch climbing, crack technique, and wall bivouac systems is required. Permits are obtained by lottery or through the Camp 4 waitlist.

Health & safety

  • Frequent rockfalls in spring: helmet mandatory
  • Dehydration on the wall: bring 4 liters of water per person per day
  • Summer thunderstorms: check the weather report every morning

Day-by-day itinerary

1

Warm-up at Swan Slab

Yosemite Valley

Camp setup at Camp 4. First cracks at Swan Slab and Church Bowl.

Cracks at Swan Slab

Sports4h

Bouldering at Camp 4

Sports2h
2

Royal Arches

Yosemite Valley

16-pitch traditional climb up the Royal Arches with a rappel descent.

Royal Arches Route 5.7 A0

Sports8h
3

El Capitan: The Nose, Day 1

El Capitan

Start of The Nose. First 15 pitches. Wall bivouac 450m above the ground.

The Nose, pitches 1-15

Sports12h

Bivouac at El Cap Tower

Sports2h
4

El Capitan: The Nose, Day 2

El Capitan

El Capitan summit. Last 16 pitches up the upper Nose.

The Nose pitches 16-31

Sports10h

Summit and descent

Sports3h
5

Half Dome: Snake Dike

Half Dome

Snake Dike climb (5.7R) up the south face of Half Dome. Summit at 2,694m.

Snake Dike Route

Sports10h

Descent down the cables

Sports2h
6

Bouldering at Camp 4 and farewell

Yosemite Valley

Morning bouldering session. Farewell at Yosemite Lodge.

Bouldering: Midnight Lightning

Sports3h

Pizza and beer at Degnan's Deli

gastronomy1h

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